French cosmetics ingredient manufacturer Silab has introduced Metallomia, a patented detoxifying active ingredient developed for menopausal skin. The company says the ingredient targets a deficiency in ferritinophagy, the controlled release of iron from ferritin stores, that it identified through a modeling study of menopausal skin.
According to Silab, reduced ferritinophagy during menopause limits bioavailable iron and contributes to premature skin aging, a process the company calls metallo-aging. UV exposure can intensify the problem, Silab says, because UV favors degradation of iron/ferritin complexes, leading to a massive and uncontrolled release of iron and causing significant oxidative stress.
Mechanism and positioning
Metallomia is designed to relaunch ferritinophagy in menopausal skin, facilitating iron delivery and supporting major epidermal functions, according to Silab. The company adds that by reducing iron/ferritin complexes, the active ingredient limits oxidative stress when skin is exposed to UV.
Silab reports that this targeted mechanism significantly reduces metallo-aging. In a study of Caucasian volunteers, skin was described as revitalized from 14 days, with a reinforced skin barrier and a more unified, radiant complexion. In Asian volunteers, pigment spots were significantly reduced after 28 days, according to the company. When applied before UV exposure by Caucasian volunteers, the ingredient also prevented lipid peroxidation, and redness was limited within hours after exposure, Silab says.
Marshmallow root and supply chain
For Metallomia’s development, Silab examined the molecular composition of marshmallow roots, which are particularly rich in mucilages. The company says it has established a traced supply chain with French partners, validated against criteria described in the European Pharmacopoeia and through authentication by DNA barcoding.
To benefit from the root’s mucilage content, Silab developed a specific enzyme engineering process to extract polyuronides. The resulting ingredient is recommended for all care products intended for menopausal skin at a dose of 0.5% to 2%. It is available as an aqueous solution, which the company says makes it easy to formulate.
According to Silab, Metallomia complies with biodiversity regulations and has a natural origin content of 100% under ISO 16128. It also complies with international cosmetics regulations in markets including Europe, the United States, China and Japan, the company says.